Clive and Catherine decided to end 2022 walking the Grampians Peak Trail (GPT) from north to south. Here’s their diary with their photos.
Along the way we found water tanks at all campsites and some intermediate water tanks as marked on the map. This meant that we rarely had to collect water from creeks, but we took sterilising tablets just in case. Six of the camps had shelters which provided shade and a place to sit and cook and socialise. The other 5 camp sites had a communal area with tables but no shade. (This information is all provided on the Grampians Peak Trail maps).
We did find the suggested walking times were inconsistent. Map times differed from the signs on the ground; and the times on the signs did not always tally with the time already done. Causing some confusion at times. Everyone walks at a different pace, carrying different weights in their packs; and distance is not always the best judge. Mostly days were 5-6 hours, but the big days to Redman Bluff and across the plateau were more like 6-7 hours. We chose December to do this walk and had great weather for the entire trip. A bit too hot for a couple of days, but then the temperature dropped to a better walking temperature. The only rain we had was at night or in
the evening. We expected crowds, but only met 3 people on the northern section and one other person south of Halls Gap. The warm weather meant we were seeing reptiles; skinks, dragons and a few snakes. Plus insects everywhere, pollinating flowers, catching mosquitos and generally buzzing around. Echidnas, red neck and swamp wallabies, kangaroos and emus were also out and about.
Part 1 Northern section of GPT : This is a 4-day walk starting from Mt Zero picnic ground to Halls Gap.
We headed up Flat Rock, going first up Mt Stapleton on a side trip, and on to near Roses Gap where we spent night 1 at Barigar. This section was new trail from Mt Stapleton and crossed the Coppermine track and ridges to a new campground at Barigar.
Day 2 to Troopers Creek along the Gar waterfalls. The walk continuing up to the Mt Difficult range to camp at Gar with side trips up Briggs Bluff and Mt Difficult (Gar). Gar campground is a wonderful location overlooking the northern Grampians perched high on a cliff. We were able to watch the sunset from our tent.
Day 3. From Gar we walked south along the Mt Difficult Range looking down the cliffs onto Heatherlie Quarry, and then crossed the range to Werdug campground which overlooks Lake Wartook (Werdug).
Day 4. The last day we walked to the end of the Mt Difficult Range (crossing the road) going almost as far as Boroka lookout and then down a very nicely benched old track directly to Chatauqua Peak and into Halls Gap. We went via Bullaces Glen. What a profusion of wildflowers. Boronia, Fringe myrtle, Milkmaids, Wedge peas, Dillwynias, Fairies’ aprons, Melaleuca decussata, Mitchell wattle not yet in flower, Melaleuca squarrosa.
Part 2 The central section of the GPT: This section goes from Halls Gap to Jimmy Creek Road over 5 days (4 nights).
After a bit of lunch in Halls Gap we headed up the Pinnacle, deciding to go via the metal steps (our favourite route) and onto the Sundial carpark to the camp at Bugiga near Mt Rosea. This was one of the original campgrounds and had a different attachment system for tents on the tent platform, which meant that rope was needed. An early start the next day to beat the heat, saw us ascend Mt Rosea (amazing views) and then drop down to Borough Huts, cross the road and a bit further on we passed under an old flume, to a new campground at Barri Yalug. Hot and dry and no shade here. But we had views of Lake Bellfield and a seat to enjoy them from.
There was a track heading north from here back to Halls Gap for those returning on the 3-day – 2 night walk.
Day 5 A most exhilarating and spectacular walk, past an old flume up the ridge to the Dials. Passing the old flumes was a fascinating glimpse into the past. A wonderful walk up and down along the new and rocky Dials track until you drop down to cross the road and then head up to Redman’s Bluff with more spectacular views of Lake Bellfield and the Serra Range and Mt William. What a day! Dropping down the gully and paralleling the road that goes to Mt William until you reach the Duwul campground.
Day 6. From Duwul we headed to the Mt William carpark, and then up the bitumen road to Mt William summit (side trip) and then following the old track to Boundary Gap and up onto the Major Mitchell Plateau. This was definitely a highlight – the views were spectacular. Wildflowers that had been and gone at lower elevations were still out on the Plateau. Colour was everywhere – creek lines covered in pink Sprengelia incarnata (pink swamp heath), maroon Rosy bush pea (an endemic), Fridge myrtle and tea tree all flowering in profusion. We camped near Stockyard saddle at Durd-Durd. Another amazing day! Melaleuca decussata, Boronia, Sprengelia incarnata, Rosy bush pea, Grampians Bauera, Milkmaids, Goodenia, Fairy aprons and Fringe myrtle.
On the plateau we caught sight of the shy white-lipped snake under the boardwalk. This is a small venomous snake that eats skinks! It actually lies in wait at the nest waiting for the young ones to hatch. Down in Boundary Gap we were lucky enough to see a Purple Eyebright flowering. The rock banksias here were huge and old. The wet gullies providing such a contrast. Banksia hill, at the southern end of the Plateau, is aptly named. I managed to see Acacia obliquinervia as well as Mountain Correa another endemic! The walk down from the Plateau to Jimmy creek crossed a wildflower meadow of white daisies. Creamy candles, Pimelea, Chocolate Lillies and our first sight of Flame Grevillea (Grevillea dimorpha) – another Grampians endemic.
Part 3 Southern section: This section can be done as a 5 day (4 night) walk from Jimmy creek road to Dunkeld. The GPT now took us along newly cut trails almost all the way to Dunkeld. The trail linked in with the pre-existing tracks up Mt Abrupt, the Picanninny and Mt Sturgeon before descending to Dunkeld. Spending nights at newly developed campsites Yarram, Wannon, Djardji Djawara and Mud Dadjug. We traversed very interesting country that had not previously been tracked. So this meant rough and rocky going in places. We crossed quartzite cliff
bands, saddles and countless knolls. I found this fascinating as it was new country with exciting new vistas, valleys and ridges to explore.
Day 7 From Jimmy’s Creek Road we ascended the rough and rocky track around knolls, scree slopes and along ridge lines. We descended down to the well-sited Yarram campsite, which is in a natural amphitheatre, with tent platforms set up on 3 levels of terraces giving stunning views across to the Serra range. Definitely a favourite campsite.
Day 8 From here we descended down to Yarram Gap Road and then gently headed up a ridge, climbing over several knolls onto the most southern section of the Mt William Range. e stayed up high, with views to the east into farmland and expansive wetlands associated with the Wannon River. We then dropped down to the Wannon campsite at Mt Christabel, which is in a green and lush valley on reclaimed farmland. What a wonderful grassy spot. This campsite only had granite sand pads and no wooden tent platforms which meant we had to use pegs. (I would have preferred not to use pegs as this is a means of transmitting phytophthora fungus).
Day 9 From Wannon campground, we wound our way up the valley towards the Wannon River. Walking along a boardwalk, we eventually crossed the Wannon River and then across swampy ground to the road, and from here
into heath and grassland to the Griffin Fireline and then climbing up onto the Serra range. This area was noted for Grevillea dimorpha, Calectasia cyanea – still partly out, Fringe myrtle, Hakeas, Milkwort, Blotched sun orchids, Duck orchids, Horny conebushes and Grevillea aquifolium. It was an adventure to walk crisscrossing
along the Serra range ridge line with an abundance of Shiny tea tree flowering in profusion with their beautiful big white flowers. So many insects buzzing around. Sadly too many introduced European honey bees. But we were lucky enough to see 4 types of Jewel beetles and several other beetles, native bees, wasps, flies and butterflies everywhere as well as white swallowtails. These native pollinators were all hard at work. I have never seen so many flowering tea trees. Calytrix still flowering, Epacris impressa, Bronze hood orchid, Purple daisies, White daisies and Yellow Goodenias. This day ended at Djardji djawara campground near Cassidy Gap. A very well equipped and large campground with a shelter.
Day 10. This was a tough day as we climbed up Signal peak (stunning views north and south) and then joining the main track up Mt Abrupt before descending over 600 stone steps into Mud Dadjug campground at the base of Mt Abrupt. Amazing views from here up to the cliffs on Mt Abrupt and a lookout set over the surrounding farmland.
Day 11 The last day but still more adventure. We followed the ridge down from Mt Abrupt to the road and then up the Piccaninny (Bainggug) as a side trip. We had not done this before and it was well worth the look. From here we had a tough walk-up Mt Sturgeon with at least two false summits until we finally reached the summit with views over Dunkeld. Insects buzzing everywhere; dragonflies, wasps, bees, and butterflies were just wonderful to see. The descent off Mt Sturgeon had us going around the southern side via 3 newly constructed steel ladders and 2 metal walkways along the cliff edges. I was very interested to be able to walk through the Dunkeld Pastoral Company private land to reach Dunkeld. This took us through pasture, alongside the Wannon River which we crossed on 2 bridges, then walking up Salt creek and finally into Dunkeld. We thoroughly enjoyed the trip for the walking and its scenery, with the good weather we had and an abundance of wildflowers
throughout making it all the more enjoyable.